electric box too small for smart switch One thing you can try is an "extension junction box". For a finished-wall area like this, you want a fairly handsome one, such as a "Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box". They come in 1" or 2" tall, and you can see if the hole in the back of the 1" one will clear the . Correct fill capacity: The junction box should be large enough to contain the wires. .
0 · switch box too wide
1 · switch box too small
2 · switch box not working
CNC machining is the process of removing material from a workpiece until the desired shape is configured. These machines have at least a 3 axes and operate along an XYZ plane: X axis (vertical), Y axis (horizontal), and a Z axis (depth).
One thing you can try is an "extension junction box". For a finished-wall area like this, you want a fairly handsome one, such as a "Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box". They come in 1" or 2" tall, and you can see if the hole in the back of the 1" one will clear the .After making your connections to the switch, wrap two or three wraps of electrical .
After making your connections to the switch, wrap two or three wraps of electrical tape around the switch and secure it into the box. You can .I see the Aeon Labs AL001 one button touch panel that pairs with it is on Amazon and I think they would be small enough to fit in the box. The only issue is that it's a 2-gang box, not single. So .Trying to install a smart switch (TP-Link Kasa) and when I opened up this box - it's a mess. They were jammed up prety good back there and the old switch and plate were flush against the wall. But no matter which way I bend them - I can't . Neutral is that white bundle still inside the box. The black is daisy-chained to provide power to the next switch. If the switch is unused you could disconnect it, though it .
switch box too wide
Smart switches take up a lot of space in boxes and don't leave much room for wiring and wire nuts. Go with as big as you can. 22 in usually matches the depth of a 2x4 stud when it's . The only way box fill would change is if you actually brought a neutral wire into the box. But that would require conduit, and you have cable. I count 5 wires coming into the box, plus 1 count for all grounds, plus 2 for the . I installed the first smart switch (out of 3 I want to install in my mobile home) in my bedroom, but the wall is too narrow and the box doesn't fit - it sticks out. It's on the wall when you enter the room which also acts as the .
I am installing a dimmer switch on a light switch that has two switches on it (2 gang?). I'm putting the dimmer on just one of them - not both, but after I got it hooked up, I . Height is about 1/4" too small (just over 1/8" on top and bottom if centered). My plan right now is to install them via wood spacer to stud and then screw the smartbox onto that. Then expanding foam in top/bottom cracks, or . One thing you can try is an "extension junction box". For a finished-wall area like this, you want a fairly handsome one, such as a "Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box". They come in 1" or 2" tall, and you can see if the hole . After making your connections to the switch, wrap two or three wraps of electrical tape around the switch and secure it into the box. You can also replace the existing box with a plastic old work box.
I see the Aeon Labs AL001 one button touch panel that pairs with it is on Amazon and I think they would be small enough to fit in the box. The only issue is that it's a 2-gang box, not single. So not sure how that'll look with a cover or switch on the other side. Trying to install a smart switch (TP-Link Kasa) and when I opened up this box - it's a mess. They were jammed up prety good back there and the old switch and plate were flush against the wall. But no matter which way I bend them - I can't get them to sit back enough to mount the new switch. Neutral is that white bundle still inside the box. The black is daisy-chained to provide power to the next switch. If the switch is unused you could disconnect it, though it probably would make more sense to keep it wired in. Sorry, no idea about the fit.
Smart switches take up a lot of space in boxes and don't leave much room for wiring and wire nuts. Go with as big as you can. 22 in usually matches the depth of a 2x4 stud when it's stubbed out, and gives you the most space. The only way box fill would change is if you actually brought a neutral wire into the box. But that would require conduit, and you have cable. I count 5 wires coming into the box, plus 1 count for all grounds, plus 2 for the yoke.
I installed the first smart switch (out of 3 I want to install in my mobile home) in my bedroom, but the wall is too narrow and the box doesn't fit - it sticks out. It's on the wall when you enter the room which also acts as the closet wall on the other side.
I am installing a dimmer switch on a light switch that has two switches on it (2 gang?). I'm putting the dimmer on just one of them - not both, but after I got it hooked up, I couldn't make it fit into the electrical box because there's no room! Height is about 1/4" too small (just over 1/8" on top and bottom if centered). My plan right now is to install them via wood spacer to stud and then screw the smartbox onto that. Then expanding foam in top/bottom cracks, or possibly just use drywall mud. One thing you can try is an "extension junction box". For a finished-wall area like this, you want a fairly handsome one, such as a "Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box". They come in 1" or 2" tall, and you can see if the hole .
After making your connections to the switch, wrap two or three wraps of electrical tape around the switch and secure it into the box. You can also replace the existing box with a plastic old work box. I see the Aeon Labs AL001 one button touch panel that pairs with it is on Amazon and I think they would be small enough to fit in the box. The only issue is that it's a 2-gang box, not single. So not sure how that'll look with a cover or switch on the other side. Trying to install a smart switch (TP-Link Kasa) and when I opened up this box - it's a mess. They were jammed up prety good back there and the old switch and plate were flush against the wall. But no matter which way I bend them - I can't get them to sit back enough to mount the new switch. Neutral is that white bundle still inside the box. The black is daisy-chained to provide power to the next switch. If the switch is unused you could disconnect it, though it probably would make more sense to keep it wired in. Sorry, no idea about the fit.
Smart switches take up a lot of space in boxes and don't leave much room for wiring and wire nuts. Go with as big as you can. 22 in usually matches the depth of a 2x4 stud when it's stubbed out, and gives you the most space. The only way box fill would change is if you actually brought a neutral wire into the box. But that would require conduit, and you have cable. I count 5 wires coming into the box, plus 1 count for all grounds, plus 2 for the yoke. I installed the first smart switch (out of 3 I want to install in my mobile home) in my bedroom, but the wall is too narrow and the box doesn't fit - it sticks out. It's on the wall when you enter the room which also acts as the closet wall on the other side. I am installing a dimmer switch on a light switch that has two switches on it (2 gang?). I'm putting the dimmer on just one of them - not both, but after I got it hooked up, I couldn't make it fit into the electrical box because there's no room!
switch box too small
switch box not working
electric that powers straight to box
In many suburban neighborhoods, the distribution lines are underground and there are green transformer boxes at every house or two. The transformer's job is to reduce the 7,200 volts down to the 240 volts that makes up normal household electrical service. Let's look at this pole one more time, from the bottom, to see what is going on:
electric box too small for smart switch|switch box not working